The Snow Maiden Opera. This is a 25 foot tall Rooster welcoming in the Chinese New Year. It flapped its wings

It was a truly nutcase “Snow Maiden” at the Mariinsky last night, Rimsky-Korsakov’s operatic masterpiece of returning spring, reimagined via copius amounts of LSD in a surreal world of fairy tale meets Sacre Du Printemps via liberal helpings of marijuana. What were the set designers on? Shades of Chinese New Year as well as our heroine eventually melts and the sun is free to shine and usher in a very late spring. Madcap, but fun.

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Tonis Magi

They say everyone has a double, and I seem to have found mine. Having grown my hair and beard long, I have come to resemble an Estonian rock star. The hair and beard growing is down to three things actually, early morning laziness, the winter cold, and just because I can.

Anyway, my doppelganger is Tonis Magi, a popular rock singer from Estonia. Some of these photos are of me, some of him. I know where’s he’s been, too, because certain bar staff and hotel managers have been saying “Good to see you again!” at places I’ve never been before.

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Sadko and his band of travelling merchants en route to Venice.

Rimsky-Korsakov’s fairy tale opera “Sadko” at the Mariinsky last night. Telling the tale of Sadko, a down beat Minstrel who is bewitched by the Sea Princess, forgets his wife and goes on adventures to find his fortune. After 12 years away and becoming rich, he is summoned to marry the Sea Princess under the waves, and nearly does so before Neptune intervenes – after all, Sadko is married. The Princess is turned into the River Volkova as punishment and Sadko wakes up on a lonely beach, only to find his broken-hearted wife searching for him. He thinks its all a dream until he finds his crew have safely returned and he is now the richest merchant in Novgorod. Moral: Try for your dreams.

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Khan Konchak (Sergei Aleksashkin), Konchakovna (Olga Borodina), Prince Vladimir Igorevich (Yevgeny Akimov) & Prince Igor (Alexander Morozov)

I love going to the opera at the Mariinsky but especially so in the winter. The evenings are -25, snowy,dark and ice-covered, yet the bright lights and warmth of the audiences at the opera provide a way out of the deep winters gloom. Russian composers knew this, and would create spectacular, long pieces to best illustrate their adapations of Russian stories. Many last for over three hours, with the intermissions being a chance to catch up with friends, drink vodka, champagne and enjoy caviar, which can still be done in the Mariinsky today.

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Eugene (Konstantin Zverev) looks down at the flooded Neva

Gliere’s ballet “The Bronze Horseman” was revived at the Mariinsky last night. A Pushkin tale of how Peter the Great built St.Petersburg, and of the real flood in 1824 that destroyed large parts of the city. It is centred around the statue built by Falconet and sited in Senate Square. The plinth incidentally, in the largest rock ever moved into position by humans. The ballet,for which Gliere wrote the music in 1948, is a three hour extravaganza with awesome dancing, effects, and stage sets. It really is a Petersburg ballet, with local legends stating that if the statue is removed, St.Petersburg will fall. Since the city underwent tremendous stresses over the centures, the legend has remained true.

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The Soviet era Opera “Kai & Gerda”, based on the story of the Snow Queen  by Hans Christian Andersen has been revived in Russia recently, with both the Bolshoi and Mariinsky featuring revivals. The opera was originally premiered at the Mariinsky (then known as the Kirov) on Christmas Eve 1980; the performance I saw is the third production, with significant improvements available in terms of costumes, sets and technologies that were not conceivable 40 years ago.

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As is my tradition, I spend New Years Eve and the Orthodox Christmas (January 7th) is Russia, usually at my St. Petersburg apartment. The Russians celebrate New Year with enthusiasm just as everyone else does, and unless I get my annual share of winter snow, icy temperatures and that feeling of Christmas spirit at this time, I don’t feel quite right for the next twelve months. A cold traditional Christmas has become rather more than an annual celebratory event, it has become a necessity.

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Ingredients:
1 x Goose
1 x Guinea Fowl (or large duck)
1 x Pheasant (wild is best)
1 x Partridge or Quail (wild preferred)

Christmas and the New Year period are always a time to be with family and friends – with those hosting the task of putting on enough food a daunting one. Cuisine needs to be wholesome, filling, delicious and in line with the occasion, something rather special and out of the ordinary.

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Next year is the 135th anniversary of Stravinsky’s birth, so it is entirely appropriate that a piece long thought lost during the Russian revolution has been found. There is a ‘missing link’ between Stravinsky’s earlier work, exemplified by “The Firebird“ with its quasi oriental exoticism influenced by Rimsky-Korsakov, to “Le Sacre du Printemps“ influenced by Nicholas Roerich. The difference in composition is startling, the earlier pieces from the romance of the Imperial Russian Court and elements of the East, to a far more rhythmic and tribal piece. The gap between the two proved too much for many concert goers at the time, the audience famously rioting when Sacre was first performed.

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I’m back to Sri Lanka for the Winter months, and what better way to re-acquaint myself with the local scenery than spend a few hours out fishing. I have nothing in the larder, the cupboard is bare after months spent in Europe, so I really do need to fish for my supper.

The best time is early morning or evening, and I’ve opted for dusk, leaving the shore at about 5pm. The Indian Ocean is still fairly rough, with the recent supermoon – the largest since 1948 – exerting a huge pull on the waves. It is a big swell out there today of about eight-nine feet, and even the dangerous underwater rocks that crowd out part of Unawatuna Bay are exposed as the waves surge back and forth and crash over them. It can be a deadly spot – there are wrecks just here, of small to medium fishing boats that ventured just a little too close. I know from diving just here the currents are strong too. Its an area deserving of some respect and I give the rocks and undersea breakers a wide berth as I motor around and out into open Ocean.

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